FAQs

We do not cut lawns, and we also  do not offer  leaf removal, blowing, weeding / edging, nor trimming.

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We come out eight times a year. Our applications are about every 5-8 weeks apart from each other.

All the products that we use are registered with the EPA (Environmental Protection Agency). We do ask that you keep off the lawn after a liquid application to allow it time to dry. It usually only takes an hour or two. (In summer it may only be a few minutes). Our main reason for requesting this is to keep the product from being tracked inside and staining your floors, carpet, etc.

This depends on what type of application was applied. Liquid or dry and/or if you bag/mulch the clippings.

If you do NOT bag your clippings, you can go ahead and mow any time after service. Logic being that any fertilizer picked up by the mower will be returned back to the lawn.

If you DO bag your clippings, we suggest that you water the lawn prior to mowing. Whether the application is liquid or dry, this will activate/release the products into the soil so that you are not removing anything.

If we applied dry fertilizer,  there’s no need to water immediately. You can wait for the next rain. The fertilizer is a slow-release product, so it won’t harm (burn) the lawn.

If we applied liquid pre-emergent, we do recommend the pre-emergent be watered in. If you can, turn your irrigation on for a good soaking, or just wait for the next rain.

An average size lawn is 6,000 square feet. The technicians are trained to apply the correct amount of product according to their pace behind the spreader on dry applications or spray on the liquid applications. It shouldn’t take the technician more than a few minutes to service an average sized lawn. The spreaders and spray guns are professionally
calibrated each round for proper coverage. Plus, if they miss an area, it will soon be obvious by lack of color or presents of weeds. If you’re still concerned, especially with active weeds, please give the application 10-14 days and let us know
at that point if the weeds are not browning. We can safely retreat after that time.

There are many factors that go into when your weeds will start dying. If you did not receive our pre-emergent applications, which help prevent crabgrass and other grassy weeds, you’re likely going to have some weeds. Our service is most effective when you receive the applications in a timely manner, and without interruptions. It does take several applications to see the effects from our applications and the full benefit is met at about one year. It may take some time to see the results you are looking for. We can assure you we are doing everything we can to expedite that process. We do offer service calls in between treatments when it is not time for your next one.

Nutsedge is very difficult to control. Unfortunately, there is not a pre-emergent that will prevent it from coming back. If you notice it, let us know and we can treat as needed.

Moss usually occurs due to certain environmental conditions. If an area is shady, tends to hold water, or is compacted, moss may develop. Although moss prefers an acidic soil rather than alkaline, applying additional lime has little to do with moss control. We recommend core aeration to alleviate soil compaction. This will allow for better air flow and water/rain intake. The quickest remedy is to rake up the mossy areas and try to improve the shade/water issues.

Mushrooms are a sign of some type of organic matter decomposing underneath the soil. They do not cause harm to the lawn. You can just mow or kick them over.

What time of year is it?

For Bermuda and Zoysia grasses – If it’s early spring, it may be Spring Dead Spot. If it’s spring/summer, it may be Dollar Spot.

For Fescue grasses – If it’s summer, it’s probably Brown Patch.

We are happy to send someone out to assess the circles in your lawn, and diagnose the issue.